Meet Jewellery Curator Maike Browning

‘I have always been happiest when I am making things,’ she says, ‘I studied at Edinburgh College of Art, and after graduating I quickly found my own studio space and started stocking galleries across the UK.’ She then moved to the wild and rugged Isle of Mull to continue developing her delicate and ethically-made wearable artwork. She found inspiration in the island’s abundance; wildflowers, seedheads and shells, together with the intricate patterns she discovered in Indian textile books. Here, she set up her own studio and spent two years running a gallery space where she first experienced curating and working with jewellers. ‘I found it really rewarding, and began to realise that I loved working with other jewellers as much as making my own work,’ she says. 

Being a jeweller is integral to her curatorial process. She is keenly aware of the effort, skill, creativity, and materiality behind a strong collection, which expands beyond the making into everything that encompasses being a small business owner. ‘I think it’s so helpful to understand other jewellers’ creative processes and materials, and to understand what it’s like to be self-employed,’ she explains. Across the gallery, The Biscuit Factory features work by over 30 jewellers at any one time. With such a varied collection, Maike believes everyone will find something that resonates with them. ‘I hope people will appreciate the excellent craftsmanship which ties each collection together. Visitors will see a broad range of materials, techniques and prices. I think, looking at the work, you can see it is all made by people who really love what they do. I feel really lucky to be able to handle, and see up close a huge range of jewellery, and this has led me to have very high standards!’ 

‘I look for jewellery which is impeccably made, beautiful, and unique,’ Maike explains. ‘I am always looking for pieces which will stand the test of time, that have a special quality to them – something that shows each piece has been made by hand with care and attention.’ This philosophy is exquisitely manifested in her latest curatorial choices for the Summer season, featuring work from Anny Hsieh, Jade Mellor and Leoma Drew. ‘All three jewellers are incredibly skilled and produce meticulously made jewellery,’ Maike tells us. ‘I was looking for collections of work that added something new to our wider collection of jewellery. Anny Hsieh makes very fine work, with incredible stone setting, inspired by her background in architecture. Jade Mellor works in silver and bronze, to make pieces inspired by fossils and mineral structures, which look like ancient treasures! Leoma Drew works with stunning precious stones, to make designs which feel both classic and contemporary. This summer’s new jewellers are really different from each other; what connects them is the skill needed to make such beautiful and unique work!’ 

Today, Maike lives in rural Northumberland with her partner and young son, designing her own collections alongside curating The Biscuit Factory’s extensive range of jewellery. Just like during her years in Mull, she prioritises spending time in the natural world, gathering reference material from her garden or the forest floor. ‘You’ll often find me out in the woodland or up on the moor, taking photos of wild flowers and grasses. My home and studio are filled with little treasures I’ve picked up over the years, kept in pockets, placed on mantle pieces, or pressed in books. My partner is also a gardener so I’m lucky to be surrounded by a lot of beautiful plants, which often informs my designs.’

Her days are joyfully spent balancing time between making and curating. ‘I am always on the look out for new jewellers,’ she says. ‘I love visiting craft fairs and open studios, and checking out work by recent graduates. I also enjoy visiting museums and galleries to see how other curators respond to different work and spaces.’ Outside of work, Maike unwinds by reading a good book and she has recently been exploring a new creative outlet, learning to sew. She fondly describes her ideal Sunday as: ‘a day at my sewing machine making something to wear, while my son works happily on a Lego project!’

View selected pieces of jewellery online or visit the gallery to browse the full collection